Friday, 20 June 2008

Day 56 Rowardennan to Inverarnan

What better view from your bedroom window than Loch Lomond and pine studded hillsides?

Yet another sunny day greeted me this morning. The school party stayed at the YH but they weren't too rowdy they even had good manners! The trail went right past the YH through pine forests on undulating tracks. A couple of times i could see the rain coming over the hills and then the heavens just opened but they were only showers and quickly passed. Other than these minor blips the weather was fantastic and really warm. Unfortunately the notorious Scottish midges were out in force down by the loch but if you kept moving they weren't too much of a nuisance. Had a £10 donation from a guy walking the WHW with his dog who also had a backpack (the dog had the backpack). He later mentioned that he couldn't see much running in evidence (I was sat on a rock soaking in the sun at the time) but to be honest the terrain later in the day required step by step navigation through a tangle of tree roots and a university degree in rock scrambling with the added problem of raised stone drainage ditched requiring leaping over every 20m or so. But the scenery was absolutely stunning - I know I keep saying this but I don't know how else to describe it.

Several times the way dropped down to a cove or a beach and you could look back down the loch. I stopped for lunch at a hotel very conveniently placed on the WHW, in fact it was the only house I passed all day. A la-di-da couple were very disappointed at the menu choices (clearly the hotel was catering for the needs of walkers and the occasional runner) and promptly asked if the chef would cook two steaks.....chef said no to which their response was "we've driven all this way and that's all you can offer?" she made do with a G&T.

Eventually the trail left the ups and downs and cragginess of the woodlands and instead dropped down gently through more open hillside covered with lush green ferns and purple foxgloves. It left the loch behind as it shrunk to just a river. A small woodland them emerged into Beinglas at the campsite where I chatted to my roomy from last night ; Penny and her son who were walking the WHW too. Another interested party for my blog!

I'm staying at the Drover's Inn tonight, a strange quirky place were you are met with all sorts of stuffed creatures; everything from birds and mammals, including a bear with it's foot in a trap with a ball and chain on it's other leg to what looks like a small basking shark! The barman is in a kilt - it's really weird seeing blokes in skirts!

Another fantastic day and to be honest, whilst I'm finding my legs simply don't belong to me in the morning and wont work, by the afternoon I am fine and actually could have gone further today.

Mileage 15.08 Time 4.10

Total mileage 930.60

Thursday, 19 June 2008

Day 55 Drymen to Rowardennan

After yesterdays great day, today would be a stunning scenery experience.

Once again the weather was mixed; showery and breezy with blue sky and sunshine underneath the white and grey clouds! Rubbly lanes through Buchanan Smithy took me into a forestry plantation to rejoin the WHW along undulating tracks to eventually emerge onto open heather clad moor and then climb up and around Conic Hill. The weather turned a little bit sour with fresh breeze and a shower. A school party gave me a round of applause as I successfully completed the run over the top - they are walking the trail so I'll probably see them on a couple of occasions before Fort William!

The good news is that my leg injury seems to have healed itself as I have no more pain either running on the road or running downhill (hoorah) so I was able to fully enjoy the journey back down and through the woods into Balmaha where I stopped for lunch - another £5.00 donation. The trail then hugged the banks of Loch Lomond which, at 27 square miles is Britain's largest stretch of inland water. The views were absolutely stunning and changed round every corner with the loch being flanked by huge pine covered hills. The trail ran through woodland and along the shores itself so a mix of sand, stones and undulating soil tracks. There were loads of places where "off piste" camping was allowed, evidence by the many fire rings dotted along the way. If this is a signal of things to come then I am in for a very enjoyable journey indeed over the next few days.

Mileage 14.64 time 3.26

Day 54 Kilsyth to Drymen



Happy Birthday to me!

Here was me thinking I would be celebrating when I get home, not a chance as I was greeted at breakfast with not only a couple of cards plus a rendition of "Happy Birthday" and topped with a cake complete with candle - brilliant surprise. So, with cake duly packed in a cotton bud container I set off first along footpath and then for a while along the A803 out of Kilsyth. Weather Gods clearly knew it was a special day as although cloudy, it was breezy so they didn't hang around for long and at times it was quite muggy. At Milton of Campsie (with names like that you really know you are near the Highlands!) I diverted from road to disused railway line which followed the course of the Glazert Water through lovely shady woodlands and villages. Now this is much more like it and although still alongside water and nothing like canal running. Just passed Lennoxtown the trail left the woods and, parallel to the A891 passed through fields and below hillsides festooned with meadow flowers. Handily, I arrived in Straphblane at lunchtime so devoured a delicious sandwich and picked up another £10 whilst I was at it. The railway line continues through yet more woodland awash with rhododendrons, wild roses, fox gloves and huge leafed plants that once again made me look like one of the Borrowers in a strange land. It really was a joy to run along the woodland paths. Back out in the open I passed a whiskey distillery and shortly afterwards picked up my penultimate long distance path : The West Highland Way which starts at Milgabenie near Glasgow and runs all the way to Fort William. I hadn't seen anyone all morning yet within minutes of setting foot on the WHW I had passed six people! I was also faced with my first flagstones since the Pennine Way although I am unsure why they were needed here as there didn't appear to be any sign of boggy water. The logo (Scottish Thistle) was also exactly the same as I had followed on the Southern Uplands Way. More fantastic tracks through woodland and along banks where the vivid smells and colours were enough to brighten anyones day.

After travelling along a very quiet lane for a short while I then headed South again, but only for a mile or so along yet another disused railway line, now an official route in the National Cycle Network, and into Croftamie where again I headed in the preferred North direction. It wasn't long before I entered the Buchanan Castle estate : very classy with my B&B overlooking the 13th hole of the private golf course.

Another surprise awaited as I was greeted with a massive bunch of flowers (plus a helium balloon floating out of the box!) and a load more cards. Needless to say I was left in tears - I'm beginning to become an emotional wreck! But there were also tears of happiness as I was touched that so many had taken the time to remember me and send a card to await my arrival. Of course I couldn't take the flowers with me plus, whilst tempted, thought the balloon would struggle a bit in the wind so the bouquet was donated to Gail at the B&B and everything else sent back home.

To round off the evening I visited the oldest pub in Scotland : The Clachan Inn which opened in Drymen in 1734, for dinner and a glass of wine plus raised another £42.04 during half time in the Euro 2008 football game!

I've certainly had a birthday that I will never ever forget.

Mileage 21.84 Time 4.26

Tuesday, 17 June 2008

Day 53 Linlithgow to Kilsyth

Today was set to be a groundhog day as once again my route was totally along canals albeit a mix of the Union and the Forth and Clyde. Also as Debs happily pointed out, today was going to be my last day ever "sprightly 41 year old" but as I constantly remind her, she is still older than me!

Unfortunately the weather God decreed that today would also be a damp and at times a bit of a miserable day so it was on with the waterproofs first thing. Once again I didn't have to pay for my B&B as Nan at Belsyde House asked me to donate it to my fundraising. Dropped back down to the canal and it wasn't long before I met the first of the three amazing man made feats of engineering : the 273 metre long aqueduct straddling the river Avon. This is the 2nd longest with only Telfords aqueduct in Wales being greater in length. Still can't get my head around I'm running alongside water in mid air! After this there wasn't really much to write about over the next 6 - 7 miles except that it had stopped raining for a while. I then came to the 2nd of the days "interests" but this was causing me a bit of mental turmoil. The canal disappeared into a huge dark tunnel that I obviously had to go through and thought of it really scared me. Although dead straight so I could at least literally see the light at the end of the tunnel, it was 690 metres long and dimly lit every 25 meters of so. The path was wet and slippery in places and water was dripping constantly either into the canal or onto the footpath echoing in the tunnel. At least there was a guard rail to stop you accidentally walking into the canal! The sides of the tunnel were raw rock and these made eerie silhouettes. However I knuckled down to the task, took loads of deep breathes and ventured into the darkness. Inside was so wet that the sides had the appearance of a damp cave with stalactites and stalagmites. To saw I was relieved to be back out in daylight would be a mega understatement and I was very proud of myself to have conquered that particular demon! Didn't really care that it was now pouring, at least it was rain rather than tunnel water.

Then it was the turn of the third of today's features and this time it was a wow. 100 years ago the Union was linked to the lower Forth and Clyde by a series of eleven locks but when the canals fell into disuse they were demolished. Nowadays a huge "ferris wheel" type steel contraption called the Falkirk Wheel lifts boats to and from the two canals - the only one of its kind in the world and really has to be seen to be believed. I then transferred to the Forth and Clyde canal and passed through industrial sites (yuck), towns (OK) and countryside (much preferred) but just as I got to the later and was running along a dead straight piece of the canal stretching for nearly 3 miles the heavens absolutely opened and before long I was drenched.

Kilsyth is at first glance a town full of pebble dashed houses and flats, not really appealing but luckily I'm staying on a farm at the top end of town. Reading the visitors book quite a few end to enders have stayed here in recent days and there is a card from a guy walking North to South who had massive blister problems just getting here. He lasted one more day before buying a bike and cycling the rest of the way!

Mileage 21.74 Time 4.38

Monday, 16 June 2008

Day 52 Edinburgh to Linlithgow

To be honest getting through my days off is getting incredibly harder as I'm really missing John, family and friends - being able to talk on the mobile is great but in no way compensates for not actually being able to see them and talk face to face. It's not so bad on the other days as I have plenty to keep my mind occupied with all that is around me but being on my own in one town or city for a day is a different story. Anyway enough of my emotional state of mind!

Once again a dry day as I retraced my steps from Saturday back through the city to the mini shopping/restaurant centre where the Union Canal abruptly stopped or started, depending on which way you are coming from. The whole day was going to be spent running alongside this body of water so whilst incredibly flat (there are no locks at all on the canal which in itself is a bit unique) cast your mind back to Saturday when I mentioned I got a little "bored" running the 8 - 10 miles along the Water of Leith footpath, well this was to be a day of around two and a half times that distance. Mind you, I didn't need any maps as all I had to ensure was that the canal stayed on my left! Until as recently as the late 20th century the canal was in disrepair and following extensive restoration including a tunnel under the M8 (1st motorway I've crossed since the Penine Way) it was finally reopened in 2000 and no runs a total of 37 miles from Edinburgh to Falkirk where a marvellous piece of engineering (which I will tell you about tomorrow!) links it to the Forth and Clyde canal. There were loads of bridges to either cross or run under including several more aqueducts. Each is uniquely numbered but on the outskirts of Edinburgh they had had to add a number of new ones so I had to contend with bridges 6, 6A, 6AA, 6AB, 6B and so on! There's not really much else I can say except the weather god is still pleased with me and the sun duly shone.

Stopped for a cup of tea (well, two or three cups of tea) at The Park , a fab place that appeared as an oasis where a guy called Colin duly paid my bill plus donated £10.00 to my effort. Suitably refreshed I strided on with purpose (think possibly the total of 6 spoonfulls of sugar in the tea might have had something to do with my renewed energy!).

Can't believe I've basically run a marathon today in a time that John had great delight in telling me was quicker than my London Marathon debut time in 1993! It's also amazing that after 7 weeks this is my fastest average speed.

Mileage 26.05 time 5.01

Sunday, 15 June 2008

Day 51 - I know I've just had a holiday but I deserve another one!
Perfect blue sky this morning and not even a sign of any clouds. Did a bit of washing (whilst there was the availability of a proper washing machine) and had brekkie....the two who'd rudely awoken me early this morning were still in bed and asleep but I didn't have the heart to return the favour (when I got back later in the day I found out that they were still asleep when the 10 o'clock bed-making team knocked on the door - they're staying tonight as well so hope there's not a repeat). Took the bus to Ocean Terminal as I had a freebie ticket to visit the Royal Yacht Britannia (courtesy of Liz and Paul Jenkins which I very much appreciated) - it was really interesting to tour the decks and rooms that the Royal Family graced for so many years. I even got to pass 'beyond' the ropes and have my photo taken in the Royal lounge and also had some fun with monkey-pod in the anti-room. Although they didn't have a rubber stamp for my passport I have obtained an 'Ahoy there! I've been to The Royal Yacht Britannia' sticker instead. Whilst I was then wandering around the shopping centre (all I can do is window shop as I clearly have no capacity to carry anything with me) couldn't believe my eyes when I saw Ally from BJ's...chatted to her for a bit (she was in Edinburgh to do the moonwalk last night) but how weird is it to be so far from home and suddenly bump into someone that you know....fate must seriously play a hand here? Walked around the old town including a visit to GreyFriars church and the resting place of the famous devoted little canine : Bobby. Then treked up the steps to the castle which I was toying with the idea of going round but as the price was a little steep and I have been there before, decided to decline. However Mary Kings Close tour was really good. As I'm sure you know, the old town is made up of hundreds of tiny alleyways (closes) running off the main Royal Mile. Poor people lived and traded their wares down these alleys with the richer folk living in the upper floors. In the mid 19c the council decided to knock down the top few floors of several of these closes in order to then use the remaining houses as the foundations of their Custom House so basically they built ontop of existing dwellings. What remains underneath the Custom House is incredible - all the houses, shops and alleys giving a fantastic insight into the way of life. It was a great experience. Walked quite a way today which isn't really the idea of my rest days but I had a great time. By the way, the two in my dorm clearly didn't learn the error of their ways last night as after telling me they were going home to Germany tomorrow and that they had spent all but £3 of their money, at 8.30 pm they went out for a cigarette and didn't reappear until 11.45 and.....promptly turned the lights on again!!! My retinas are now completely burnt! Oh and Paul, took notice of your comments about my emails and tried to get into the Edinburgh office but I was refused entry based on my fantastic tan and my 'Forrest Gump' hairstyle making me look nothing like my photo ID...what a shame...I'm gutted!
Day 50 - Carlops to the 'Big Apple' city of Edinburgh
Once again I've been overwelmed with the generosity of those owning the accommodations that I've been staying in. After providing me with a full Scottish breakfast including another tasty round of haggis (and after eating all that I needed to have a bit of a lie down in order to digest!), Annette donated the B&B money to my fundraising which means I'm now at nearly £1,150 since I departed Lands End. This morning once again the sun gods were shining down on me as the sky was blue albeit a little chilly in the breeze. There was just the small subject of the Pentland Hills to negotiate before hitting the big city but I'm proud to say that apart from a couple of rest stops, I ran the whole way up to the top of the hill (bit of huffing and puffing going on to get me up there though!) and once I got there, the view was phenominal with the Forth Bridge standing out. This was also the first time since leaving the coastal path on day 2 that I've seen the sea, this time the North Sea. As the weather was so nice and also being a Saturday, there were a lot of people either out walking or mountain biking as I ran back down into the valley on nice wide grassy paths. The route to Threipmuir Reservoir was quite spectacular down a steep hill lined with shady beech trees before a gradually descending lane into the village of Balerno where I picked up the Water of Leith walk/cycle way which followed the stream all the way into the port of Leith north of Edinburgh. There were more bikes on this route than I've seen in the whole 7 weeks so far! It was a really pretty run through shady woodland crossing the stream in several places and at one point I even went through the hillside via a 100m or so long tunnel which was a bit weird as I was suddenly plunged into virtual darkness from the sunny world outside. The trail actually went on for around 12 miles so after a while, although I hate to say it, I was starting to switch off and ignore my surroundings (bit like the last couple of miles of the Castlemain Trailway back to Ringwood which will be well recognised by my fellow BJ's!). A few miles from Edinburgh city centre I picked up the Union Canal (which would be my route on Monday over to Linlithgow) but first I had to experience another first : following the canal over an aquaduct about 50" above the road and running on a cobbled footpath with no edge into the water itself - again felt a bit weird and I was glad there was no-one coming in the opposite direction! After reaching the end of the canal (it literally came to an abrupt stop next to a rejuvenated shopping centre!) it was then just a case of negotiating the many lanes and streets through Edinburgh old and new town down to the 5* YH just off Princes Street. A couple of guys commented on my excellent tan and I don't think they really believed me when I said that I got in in England and Scotland - they were convinced it was a spray-on! Looks as if I've arrived here at the right time as there is a free film festival in the castle gardens (ET being shown at 5pm!!) and the moonwalk is taking place tonight. I'd heard in Jedburgh that Evita was being shown on stage and couldn't believe my luck when I discovered the theatre was literally opposite the YH....ticket booked for tonights show! Took a quick tour on foot but a couple of heavy showers put paid to any serious touristy things so grabbed something to eat and enjoyed the musical. Unfortunately got a bit of a rude awakening in the middle of the night as two others in my dorm decided to turn on the light when they arrived back from wherever they'd been - why do people do that 'cos it's not exactly the nicest thing to do to fellow campers!?
Mileage 16.7 and time 3.35