Day 71 Watten - John O'Groats

2 a.m. I can't sleep! For the first time on my trip, my mind won't shut down. Please, just one more dry day - is sun asking too much? I haven't got any problem with it being the only day where I have a time limit (nneed to catch the 6 p.m. ferry-bus back to Inverness) but in what order do I do everything? Signpost then photo, then passport stamp, then go to Duncansby Head or Duncansby Head first? When do I phone everyone to say that I have finished? Oh the stress of it all!! Maybe I'll just go with the flow and see what happens...

When I drew back the curtains this morning it was dry but very misty. Today's the day and I'm totally unsure how I'm going to feel when I get to the finish and how I'm going to react to the reality of what I've done. But, I have to do some running first.

I guess it's because it's the last day but I feel strangely a lot stronger than I have done for the past few weeks and I'm able to run for quite a long way (I'm talking a few miles here!) before stopping for a recovery. There were quite a few fly fishers set up on the Loch who gave me a cheery wave as I ran past. It was quite a zig-zaggy route along minor roads and past isolated houses and farms before I reached Lyth and from then on the road was dead straight. The mist was still down and with the addition of low cloud I felt I was in a bit of a bubble as I could only see around 50m in any direction and this distance didn't seem to change at all. Occasionally the mist would totally clear and it made everything so much brighter. A row of telegraph poles led the way ever onwards, still in a straight line, with the occasional hill bringing the hope of a view from the top of my destination. But, once I got to the top it was just a view of the road and telegraph poles ahead! I started to think of what I should do for my 'signpost' photo - arms in air? punching the air? casual? and ran along the road whooping and practising!

The internet connection at home was broken so Sarah kindly typed up my '2am' update for today as I thought people would be interested to know how I was feeling this morning. Quite a few friends called or sent a text wishing me luck which was really nice. I spoke to Tricia who asked 'are you there yet?'....not yet but around 6 miles to go. She appeared rather abrupt as she had 'other things to do and needed to get on'....this was one of the most important days in my life and she didn't appear to have the time to speak to me!

Anyway, eventually I was able to see the North sea at the very top of Britain and I turned eastwards to Canisbay. Quite a few car drivers smiled and waved at me as I ran past - clearly they see 'end to enders' all the time but are able to recognise that this is a momentus day for each of them so it was lovely to get the friendly acknowledgement. I still couldn't see John O'Groats because of the bad weather and disappointingly, although the Orkney Isles are only just offshore, these were shrouded in mist as well : it was a complete whiteout.

Running through Huna and seeing the almost fairy-tale, castle-like John O'Groats hotel was when the realisation of what I was about to achieve hit home and the tears started flooding down my face....try running whilst snuffling back tears!! it's hard to breath. I must have looked a right sight to others but to be honest I was too far removed from the reality at this point to even care. I was wandering all over the road and when I reached the signpost advertising JOG as the 'welcome at the end of the road' I had trouble focusing the camera because of the tears. The road had been going away from the hotel until this point but now it pointed directly to the finish line and when I got to the car-park I couldn't hold any of my emotions back and screamed with sheer joy and jubilation at what I had just achieved. Loads of people congratulated me as I made my way to the signpost. I did go with the flow as I had the photo (decided on arms outstretched with index finger showing #1!!) then got the final stamp in my passport. I couldn't actually see Duncasby Head and, with the pursuasion of John, decided that the finish line is the sign-post and I don't need to go any further!

A cyclist finished just after me and after chatting for a while he and his wife kindly offered me a brew up in their van...it was great to share the finish experience with someone else.

I was booked to return to Inverness that evening on the bus that meets the Orkney ferry. The weather had not got any better and it was actually really chilly, certainly not a temperature that befits the 5 July! I was quite keen to get into the warm bus but before I got on, Tricia got off! It was one of those moments where you're just staring at someone before the brain engages and passes the recognition signal....I'd been set up good and proper but in the most fantastic way! She'd planned her trip to meet me way back at the end of March, even before I'd set out and whilst almost everyone back home knew of the cunning plan, I had absolutely no idea. Tears flowed again! After she'd answered all the 'how / when / what' questions we got down to the serious business of celebrating my success with a glass of bubbly before getting back on board. It was really interesting to then drive back down the same route I'd run albeit it in 3 hours as opposed to the week and a bit that it had taken me to run it!

Back at the YH it was time for a quick shower and new clothes that Tricia had brought up with her....jeans were back and they still don't fit but I don't care! Unfortunately it would appear that almost all the restaurants in Inverness close at the unearthly hour of 10pm or even 9pm so we were beginning to think our celebrations were going to be shortlived. However Bella Italia came to the rescue and stayed open well past their official closing time. We had a fab meal with complimentary drinks and even a donation thrown in.

Mileage 18.26

Final total mileage was a massive 1,205.54. Against my original guess of 1,200 that's pretty close in my books!

I've done it, I've really done it.

As Forrest Gump said 'I think I'll stop running now'

And in answer to the immortal words of Heather Small 'What have you done today to make you feel proud?'....well, I've just run from Lands End to John O'Groats

Day 70 - Dunbeath to Watten
Oh groundhog weather - low mist and cloud this morning which cheered me up no end. The thought of more plodding along the A9 was so inviting....not! The B&B I was staying in is in the process of being built so in reality was more like a building site. The original Inver Guest House stands on their land, a relic from 1911 made almost entirely from wood. They've had demolition consent for the last 6 years but it still stands as the view from the dining room!
Once again legs were protesting in earnest this morning as I thumped slowly up the main road ever northwards. Only gentle undulations but it's a real struggle to get up them. At Latheron I said a fond farewell to the A9 as it branched off towards Thurso and the port of Scrabster whilst I continued on its' cloned brother, the A99 towards Wick. I met a cyclist chatting to a car driver...LEJOGger perhaps with his back-up? Yep, wasn't long before Conor caught up with me. He was on his last day and it was interesting to know he had a friend contemplating running it - he should get some good tips from my blog!
At Lybster they started drilling just yesterday at Scotlands' first land-based oil rig and I could clearly see the huge metal frame as I ran past. It wasn't far after Lybster that I was finally able to turn off the main road and instead head across the last north east peninsular of Scotland on a minor road, more akin to a Roman one as it was dead-staright for at least the first 5 miles or so. Passing the odd stone house and farm (many derelict) plus Broch remains : these are iron age stone mounds of two walls used either as fortifications or dwellings. The sun did try to come out which made the scenery look much nicer, albeit it was just rough moor only able to support sheep grazing. After about 3 miles the road entered forestry plantations and those pesky flies returned - they don't bite just simply buzz in their hundreds around my head and appear to enjoy a game of dare to see who can land on my nose or for bonus points, under my sunglasses!
The one 'attraction' for today were The Grey Cairns of Camster : two of the best preserved chambered stone tombs in Britain which date back more than 5,000 years to the Neolithic times. Both had open entrances so you could go inside but I must admit I found it really difficult to bend down and crawl through the tiny gaps - my legs simply would not co-operate that well! From then on it was simply acase of plodding on down the road. I could see huge peaked mountains to my left and there were a few wind farms dotted over the open expanse of moor. The birds were back in earnest from the massive buzzards 'mewing' overhead to the alarm calls of lapwing and curlew plus stonechats whose song simply sounds exactly like a couple of stones being knocked together : they're really pretty birds with red chests and black caps and hang around on the fence wires or gorse bushes.
The road led gradually downhill towards Watten and the Loch bearing the same name. At this point I was trying to guess what my last B&B would be like : top of the list would be a TV in my room and a bath! Second would be the bath, third the TV and fourth would be just a shower.....reality was the 2nd choice and having obtained the added luxury of bath foam I was really looking forward to a good long soak. Unfortunately the water heater hadn't been turned on so I was brought back down with a huge thump!

Mileage 20.82 and time 3.58

Total Mileage 1,187.28

Day 69 Helmsdale to Dunbeath

I was complimenting the navy guys for creeping in last night as they didn't wake me up only to find that they didn't get back in until 8 am this morning! Got them all to cough up their change - £19.64 but lamented the fact that they had spent most of it in the pub last night.

Fantastic morning once again. The doorman at Dunrobin Castle had said that the route after Helmsdale was very hilly and he definitely wasn't wrong. It was straight up the hill as soon as I left the hostel and it just kept on going up. There were workmen working on the finishing stages of a new road and they kindly let me use it as a short cut but the foreman stopped me, saying it was a works access road only. I stood my ground, saying I had been told to us it as it was safer, to which he replied "those who gave their authority would get their butts kicked" jobsworth! Anyway, having taken the shortcut the road continued to follow the valleys so I seemed to be going a long way without getting very far. I entered Caithsness which many say is really pretty but to be honest, it was just a great expanse of moor with a busy main road going right through it. I stopped at the Badbea ancient village which was a collection of ruined stone houses dating from the 1700's but deserted in the early 1800's following the highland clearances. To be honest I couldn't really make out what it was as there were 6 foot high ferns everywhere but I guess in the Winter when the vegetation had died back it would have been easier to make out the remains. It is reputed that the cliff tops were so windy that animals, chickens and children were tied down to stop them blowing away. The curlews and lapwings were back in abundance but the mist came in to drown out any sort of view and then it rained - not heavy, just constant dreary drizzle.

I'm really glad I didn't go North to South as this is no joy at all and is now a means to an end, literally. A truck driver pulled over to offer me a lift which, of course, I declined - despite the lowness of today I would not cheat on my mission!

Dunbeath is yet another drab, pebbledash ridden village. The only place to eat is a pub which looks like a truckers greasy cafe - the lasagne and chips were horrid. Oh how I look forward to a proper home cooked meal.

mileage 16.47 time 3.39

Total mileage 1166.46

Day 68 Brora to Helmsdale

Perfect blue sky this morning although still a bit breezy. Hadn't even gotten to the end of the road before I picked up another £5 donation. Crossed the river and headed over Brora golf course, which, like Dornoch, was in the sand dunes right next to the sea. The two couple that had stayed at Kyle View two nights ago were on the first tee! Can't get away from people recognizing me.

As the weather was so nice and I only had a "short" day today, I decided not to waste the opportunity to relax and enjoy the surroundings so sat on the dunes in the sun for a couple of hours. Eventually the clouds built up which was my signal to move on, running through the undulating dunes between the golf course and the sea. There were a few "free range" cows and sheep wandering the dunes and some were in the sea which was as bit weird. A couple of arctic terns were nesting on the beach and at one point were in gander of being squished by the roaming cows. Unfortunately the beach footpath came to an end at which point I had to cross the railway line and pick up my favorite route, the A9 although it is beginning to get a bit quieter I must admit.

The road now gently rose and fell past remote houses and the odd farm. Fields of cows and sheep were separated by stone walls and I could have been forgiven for thinking I was looking at Hadrian's wall at one point, the way had followed the edge of the cliffs with occasional stony buildings looking like the turrets on the true version. A couple of cars tooted their support of my efforts but these made me jump each time!

After dropping down a hill into the village of Portgower the road became increasingly narrow and one the blind corners it was impossible to move until the approaching cars had passed as they came too fast and too close to the curb for comfort. Lots of arctic terns were nesting on the beaches near Helmsdale; the fact they are here just shows how far north I am!

Helmsdale itself was originally a Viking settlement and in the early 18 hundreds was an important fishing station. Once again my fame has proceeded me as the LEJOG cyclists I met in Drumnadrochit stayed here and I was apparently the subject of conversation! There is a group from HMS Sutherland staying here - their ship[ is currently undergoing repair and servicing so the crew do community projects within the Sutherland county and have been here since Monday putting in a footpath down to the shore for the community to use.

I'd passed on the fish and chips from one of the top take aways all those weeks ago in Indian Queens and got so much abuse via the blog comments that I haven't made the same mistake twice. The one in Helmsdale ; La Mirage has appeared on TV and been commended by "The Two Fat Ladies" as being one of the best in Britain - certainly I couldn't complain about the size of the portion unless to say it was too big; two pieces of fish and a huge pile of tasty chips for a fiver - bargain!

Mileage 12.28 Time 2.35

Total mileage 1149.99

Day 67 Dornoch to Brora

It rained overnight but no sign of the sun this morning although dry.

I created a traffic jam as soon as I stepped out the front door as my "advertising" caused a driver to stop to give me a donation and backed up the cars behind including a police car! Another £20 from a couple staying at the B&B. Ran back through Dornoch and over the golf course to Enbo where I had to pass through a holiday caravan site before picking up an unsigned footpath through grass covered dunes next to a sandy beach. Ahead I could just make out Dunrobin Castle over the other side of the Loch. Lots of rabbits and birds including raucous oystercatchers.

I then climbed over a couple of gates onto a minor lane that ran around the shoreline of Loch Fleet and below the ruins of Skelbo Castle. I was on the lookout for common seals and sure enough there were loads playing close to the shore but it was a shame the tide was in and had the mud flats been showing they probably would have been lying on them.

A very strange thing happened and I had no idea if it's the result of being on my own for 9.5 weeks but just after putting on my waterproofs because of the huge downpour I could clearly hear "hello hello" - there wasn't anyone around that I could see and I started thinking I was possibly on a "You've Been Framed" type show, then realised it was my phone! Reality restored, I had to rejoin the A9 to go over the end of the Loch where just ahead of me was a cyclist on one of those bikes where you sit in a chair with the pedals actually being on the front wheel - clearly a LEJOG entry! After following the main road for around 5K, I arrived in Golspie where thankfully a footpath ran on grass alongside the pebbly beach - another seal sighting, this time out on a rock.

Next on the agenda was a visit to Dunrobin Castle ; it was huge and situated right next to the beach with fabulous boxed hedged gardens. Nearest thing to a fairytale castle with loads of turrets and home of the Duke of Southerland.

Brora which is four miles away, the first two miles along the beach footpath on grass and pebbles (much like the terrain in The Grizzly run) below cliffs where kittiwake nest where in abundance and then back onto my favorite A9 into Brora.

This time I have eaten a proper meal and raised another £15 to boot!

One thing that is really weird up here is that whilst the temperature back at home is in the high 20's, people still have their fires burning and radiators on - it's 1st July today so this is crazy.

Mileage 20.66 Time 4.29

Total mileage 1137.71

Day 66 Alness to Dornoch

I know it is getting to be a bit of a habit but another dry day beckoned. Running through Alness I believe I may have become affected by a new medical affliction, that of fusion of my ankle to me leg as they simply would not flex or bend at all. But I was back on the country lanes amid fields of crop and sheep. The plan was to follow the quiet lane as it passed through small hamlets and woods and then run through a much bigger wood thereby avoiding the A9. The first part of the plan ran perfectly smoothly. I saw a couple of partridge and unfortunately disturbed a female pheasant who was quietly laid in the hedge at the side of the road with her young. It was actually the youngsters that flew away first in all directions leaving the mum to panic trying to round them all up again. I then stopped for a while watching a couple of young deer playing in a field oblivious to me spying on them. My only annoyance was a whole swarm of buzzing flies that seemed to be following me - either I had died (which obviously I hadn't) or I was beginning to really smell!

My maps showed what looked like a track existing in Lamington Park Woods which would then emerge onto the A9 at Dornoch Bridge but the trail simply didn't exist where it should have so I had to take the lane into Tain and then join the A9 there unfortunately. Whilst the traffic wasn't too heavy, it was fast and being a single carriageway there wasn't much room in the kerb for a runner!! The good news was that there was a convenient grass verge which made it a lot easier.

One of the famous Scottish whiskies is Glenmorangie and the distillery was now on my route; whilst I'm not that interested in how they make and mature the drink, if the tour had been free as advertised, then I would have joined but they were now charging so as they also had no soft drinks to offer as refreshments, I passed on the opportunity.

This time I didn't have any real choice but to cross Dornoch Firth via the A9 bridge which luckily had the addition of a pavement. A couple of terns flew overhead plus a heron. Just afterwards I was able to divert through Cuthill onto a much quieter lane. I passed on the opportunity to sample the fitness trail in the woods! Met a couple of elderly gents who'd got slightly lost and was able to point them in the right direction. When I told them where I had started from one of them replied "Was that today?" duh!

Dornoch sprang to fame for where Madonna and Guy Ritchie were married in 2000. The cathedral itself is actually the smallest in Scotland.

Tonights B&B, Kyleview House is excellent and I spent an enjoyable evening watching Andy Murray's comeback at Wimbledon. I was also really naughty as I couldn't really be bothered to get anything to eat so made do with cake and biscuits washed down with a pot of tea!

Mileage 21.66 Time 4.05

Total mileage 1117.05

Day 65 Inverness to Alness

Got a rude awakening this morning when one of the others in the dorm crashed onto the floor in the early morning - I think she had forgotten she was on the top bunk!

Followed the national cycle route number 1 back to the river (I would actually end up following it all day) and round an incredibly dusty, dirty and smelly industrial estate before climbing the steps onto Kessock Bridge. This was a huge suspension bridge over the Moray Firth and it was a tad on the windy side running over - thank goodness they had a guard rail between me and the traffic. Unfortunately non of the dolphins made an appearance although there were plenty of white horses leaping in the water. The route then followed the shoreline through North Kessock against the wind to then cross under and run initially parallel to the A9 before taking quieter lanes alongside woods.

I'm already missing the peace and quiet of the forest tracks and footpaths as I now have the drone of traffic in my left ear. I think my whole body is going into protest as I am so tired and it's a real struggle to keep putting my left foot then right foot forward and plod along. After arriving in the village of Tore I then changed direction and took the cycle path up the side of the A835. Now not only did I have the traffic noise (although I did get a couple of horn toots acknowledging my efforts being promoted by my shirt hanging off my backpack) but an uphill directly into a headwind. Then just to add to my increasing torture, the sun totally disappeared behind a huge blanket of dark grey cloud! But, once I reached the top and instead had a sidewind I bravely picked up the pace, albeit it feet still thumping the pavement and headed downhill into Conon Bridge.

There were a couple of really cute Shetland pony foals in one of the fields. All I need now was a tea shop for a sugar intake and hey presto found one...albeit it strangely located in the middle of a tropical fish shop! Sill beggars cant be choosers so tucked into soup, roll and a pot of tea for which there would be no charge. Duly refreshed I headed further downhill where into Dingwall where I saw a sign for "The North" - I'm sure they normally only say North so I'm assuming it's because I can't actually go any further!! It was then a long drag up above Cromarty Firth and I could easily see notorious mud and sand flats as the tide was out . I was back in farming country and there were huge fields of barley and oats ; the wind made them move like huge swathes of running animals. I could see the A9 crossing the Firth via a huge bridge below me and I was very glad I'd not taken the option to go that route although it would have been shorter. I was offered water by a passing motorist in a minibus which, although I declined, was a nice gesture. The lane undulated all the way to Evanton where I sheltered from a brief rain shower before running along a sandy track alongside the B817 into Alness.

I am sure I saw a huge bird of prey but my description back to John didn't reveal what it was and I've either discovered a brand new species of found a hybrid! After passing an estate or drab grey pebble dash houses arrived early at my B&B and as I was completely exhausted (can't understand why!) I crashed out on the bed in front of the TV for a few hours before venturing out for something to eat. I'd had a recommendation for Teaninich Castle which I had assumed was a pub but when I walked down the gravel path to the front door I certainly hadn't been expecting an actual castle. I'm now feeling much better after a fabulous three course roast beef and apple crumble dinner!

Remeber the cyclists I just met yeasterday? Well true to their word I'm now on their blog site and I've even made it as their "Inspiration of the Day".....

Inspiration of the day: meeting Carol, who was running from Land's End to John O'Groats. She set off on 26 April, has so far run over 1000 miles and will get to John O'Groats in 10 days time - a really amazing person.


Mileage 26.47 Time 5.09

Total mileage 1095.39