Day 43 Greenhead to Bellingham

Today was definitely another of those days that I wanted to put in a bottle specially after the slight doubts of yesterday. I was armed with a packed lunch today as it was going to be a long expedition : basically I was packing two days into one. Again rained overnight but sun was shining as I set out along a lovely grassy and shady track up to the ruins of 14th century Thirlwall Castle which was unfortunately built from the stones of Hadrians Wall hence the reason the latter didn't exist here. The Walls defensive ditch was clearly visible as I entered Northumberland National Park and the first impressive views of the thick wall itself appear at Walltown. A Canadian lady who lost her daughter to cancer was moved to tears when she heard what I was doing and gave me £4 and a pin badge. I decided to stick high up against the wall rather than follow the "easier" valley floor path despite the former having some serious ascents and descents, some so steep they required steps being set into the hillside. There are several turrets (watchtowers) and mile castles (guardposts) along the length of the wall, some better preserved than others. Loads of day hikers were out and I met a couple of women from Australia who not only donated £5 but promptly "accosted" two guys who were also well impressed and ushered them to donate £15 in return for a photo of me! In a couple of places the craggy cliffs provided excellent opportunities for rock climbing. Further up and down and up and down then bought me to Housesteads Fort, one of the finest Roman hilltop remains in Britain and this proved an excellent picnic spot.

Fully refreshed I then backtracked half a mile to pick up the Pennine Way northwards away from the wall which had given me a lot of pleasure during the mornings exertion. Dropping down from the craggs over sometimes marshy, sometimes heather moors, sheep scattering in all directions (why don't they simply run to the side when I approach instead of racing off in front and sticking to the same path I am on? They really are stupid). The path then took me through sections of three forests : pine and spruce tree giving me a bit of shade from the front whilst I ran on lush green paths. There was a little bit of open heath and moorland to negotiate in between but the tracks were clear enough to follow. Unfortunately, after a few farm fields there was quiet a long section of road which I had to walk in order to reduce jarring and after reaching further farmfield, one of which was a lovely long downhill, there was a huge herd of cows and a big bull - I'd rather walk these and end up being chased! Steep uphill over craggy rocks to a radio mast before more following the tracks through marshes although this time the ground was giving rather than wet and boggy, before dropping down to the road into Bellingham. Again the path fell short of the village so it was a walk for the remaining mile or so.

Staying at Demesne Farm bunkhouse which is brand new and as they have a gas kitchen it was really easy to self cater tonight. A really good day today but I am extending the list of ailments to now include a possible twinge in my left knee and more rucksack burns on my back! Still, I'm continuing to smile through the pain! By the way onroute fundraising from today has meant my journeys total has now topped the £1000.00 mark.

Mileage 24.53 time 6.31